THEMARCHISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
February 22, 2012
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Welcome to The Perfume Magazine!
Can you believe that it has been 6 months since our Debut issue? I can't. In fact, I only just realized it a few days ago. It is amazing what can be accomplished when you take your focus off of the calendar, once in a while. For instance, in only half a year, we have published over 2 dozen interviews and have profiled several dozen fragrances. We have taken you on a journey into the fabled halls of International Fragrance and Flavors (Winter Issue Part One), and have explored countless perfumed memories with our contributors, among many other features. The thing is, we're just warming up. In a few weeks, our Editorial staff and several of our Contributors will descend upon Esxence in Milan, Italy and we are already anticipating a barrage of creative and olfactory inspiration. But, I'm getting ahead of myself.
This month, we are very fortunate to feature a cover story by guest contributor Marian Bendeth, one of the world's foremost fragrance experts. Marian takes us on an incredible journey starting before the dawn of the technical age. Today, we take a lot for granted, but in a time that was actually more recent than we tend to acknowledge, information was hard to come by and simply finding out the year that your favorite Calvin Klein fragrance was released could take you hours, or possibly even days. Moments ago, I tested myself. I wanted to see how long it would take me to find out the year that Calvin Klein's Contradiction was released. It took me all of 8 seconds. I won't tell you the answer because I want you to try it for yourself. Go ahead, I'll wait...
My love for fragrance did not develop because of the internet and my initial knowledge on the subject came from an occasional mention in glossies such as GQ and Esquire. I didn't know any technical information on perfumery and I only learned of new releases from Ferragamo or Cartier if GQ decided to feature them. And when they featured them, I bought them. GQ was my first personal shopper - if it was good enough for them, it was good enough for me. Rather suddenly shortly thereafter - there was an enormous shift in the way information was delivered to us. If technology didn't progress right when it did and deliver the internet, my interest in fragrance would not have accelerated past the point of obsession - all the way to this Magazine. Technology can be frightening at times and in the publishing world, it can even occasionally turn into a pest - you never know when a story might break, voiding several projects that you might be working on. The need to keep ahead of the game can be daunting, but it is essential and incredibly worth it. I hope you agree. And I hope you enjoy this latest issue of The Perfume Magazine.
MARK DAVID BOBERICK | Managing Editor
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MISSED THE PREVIOUS ISSUES OF THE PERFUME MAGAZINE?
Catch up on what you missed, right here!
The Proliferation of Perfume Communication
A Commentary by Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert
I recently bumped into an old High School chum, we were best friends back in the day and had much to catch up on. As we giggled our way down memory lane, she paused for a second and then said "You always smelled like an old lady, I don't mean a Senior but like a grown woman. I always smelled of strawberries and girly stuff," she said, "but you Marian, were grown beyond your years".
As daft as that sounded, I could understand what she was saying. My childhood years were spent wearing grown-up fragrances going back to the age of three. It was hard
discussing my obsession with other kids. They didn't understand my passion for something so adult. There were no computers, cell phones with apps, tweets, zines and blogs to reference. Only my local library where I would devour foreign magazines in languages that made no sense but oh, those ads of the latest scents were always exhilarating to pore over. I would also order scarce books on perfumes which I would voraciously read cover-to-cover and hand-copy...
IN THIS ISSUE
MANDY AFTEL of Aftelier Perfumes
Interviewed by Dana El Masri
People come into our lives at any given time, sometimes you know the reason behind the encounter, and sometimes you don’t. I was meant to ‘meet’ Mandy Aftel.
Mandy is hands down one of the leading natural perfumers in the industry, having gained mainstream recognition. She is remarkably multi-faceted; a FiFi Award Finalist, teacher, collaborator, a stunning author, and she has been a trailblazer in the world of natural perfumery.
Our paths have crossed even in my day-to-day, whether it was reading Voltaire’s Candide...
FASHION
and
FRAGRANCE
by
Clayton
Ilolahia
___________
Last month I was at a dinner party and a guy sat next to me. I commented on his fragrance, which began a discussion of perfume. He was wearing Joop Pour Homme, a fragrance he had been using for almost twenty years. The conversation spread to other males at the table and two things struck me. The first thing was, these men have never purchased a perfume for personal use in their lives. The second point I came to realize was that these men were all wearing fragrances that were at least twenty years old and I was surrounded by Joop Pour Homme, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros and Davidoff Cool Water. I think this is a common scenario amongst. . .
I seem to be having a love affair with all things Tom Ford. First it was his luscious woodsy Violet Blonde, followed by the surrealistic Jasmin Rouge and then Neroli Portofino, the refreshing fragrance that was to be my muse for quite a while. But three weeks ago I shamelessly fooled around and fell madly and hopelessly in love with Tobacco Vanille. Trust me when I say that I’ve fallen hard, a bit like the time that I first laid eyes on my husband in a dark swirling dance club at about 6 minutes to midnight. The effect was very similar because I had to have him and I pursued him both recklessly and relentlessly until he finally gave in. Indeed Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille manages to be decadent. . .
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Love At First Bite
by Beth Schreibman Gehring
The Book of Lost Fragrances
by M.J. Rose
___________________________
NEW BOOK RELEASE
It is not every day that a book suitable for the shelf of a fragrance lover is released. Indeed, there exist far too few tomes that celebrate the world of Fragrance. Thankfully, Author M.J. Rose has given us one.
Last summer, Joya Studio’s Frederick Bouchardy read an advanced copy of The Book of Lost Fragrances, and was inspired to interpret the magical scent in the book. Joya’s Âmes Sœurs hints of Frankincense, Myrrh, Orange Blossom and Jasmine. It’s smoky uncommon finish suggests the past and the future, and lost souls reunited.
Our friends at The Perfume Shoppe in
Rehoboth, DE were recently featured on
FOX Philly. Watch their story, below!
Masterpieces of Artistic Perfumery
4th edition, March 29 - April 1, 2012
Palazzo La Permanente - Milan, Italy
For the first time in Italy, the leading event of Artistic Perfumery, now in its fourth edition, will have a dedicated web-tv channel in Live Streaming. Thanks to the joint-venture between Esxence and Extrait, which will guarantee a worldwide visibility to the event and to all of the brands that will take part in it...
Thanks to our friends at Extrait, The Perfume Magazine will be presenting a live stream from the event in Milan, Italy on our Facebook page.
ANNOUNCING UPDATED VENDOR'S LIST
CREED Adds New Celebrity Clients and
Robert Piguet Announces
the Launch of 5 New Scents
in the Nouvelle Collection
NEXT MONTH: THE SPRING ISSUE
When a serious and passionate fragrance lover decided to launch her own line of first-class perfumes, she turned to none other than Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.
Next month, the creative and collaborative process will be explored when Mark David sits down with Duchaufour and Neela Vermeire from Neela Vermeire Creations.
Spring is a time for renewal and growth. In the Perfume world, it is the second busiest season for new launches, many of which will be highlighted in The Spring Issue.
Lily and Hyacinth will take center-stage in a series of fragrance profiles celebrating perfumes that embrace Spring blossoms.
Features will include the return of our seasonal Home Fragrance column and the launch of our brand-new ART & DESIGN Department.
All this and more next month in The Spring Issue!
Luxuriousss Abandon
Xerjoff XJ 17/17 Irisss
Impressions From Elements Showcase
by Brian Place
The photography world has its "prosumers" -- consumers who approach photography on a more professional level without making it their career. In that sense, I'm a fragrance "prosumer." My passion has been more than a hobby, yet less than a career for the past several years. I’ve been
following Elements Showcase for a while, now and jumped at the chance to attend as a representative of The Perfume Magazine. Elements Showcase was my first encounter with many people I've known online for a while, and it also gave me a chance to meet a number of industry people whose work I really respect including. . .
CARON
L'Accord 119
by Mark David Boberick
IRIS | The Winter Hip-Note
By Mark David Boberick
The next time you pass by your local flower shop, take a minute to stop and smell the irises. No, really – lean in close and inhale deeply. What do you smell? More Than likely, you’re not smelling very much of anything – at least, nothing reminiscent of the iris note found in many of the most recent fragrances to hit the perfume counters. And the reason is very simple – you’re smelling the wrong end.
Unlike many flowers such as rose and jasmine whose essences are extracted through varying processes from the buds and petals, the true beauty of iris. . .
Paris. 1904. Ernest Daltroff opens a perfumery on the Rue de la Paix. This perfumery, named CARON, will eventually become one of the most successful and exclusive French fragrance brands, renowned for innovative and extraordinary compositions. Among them, the iconic Tabac Blond, launched at the prologue of The Roaring 20s, and a provocative symbol of feminist liberation. For a 108-year-old fragrance house to maintain its place at the forefront, it occasionally may realize the need to give in to trends that eventually stop being just trendy.
The trend in question? Fruity-Florals, which is a genre that tends to get an undesirable reputation amongst fragrance connoisseurs. . .
OLIVER VALVERDE of Oliver & Co.
Interviewed by Bettina d'Onofrio
The Perfume Magazine always welcomes the opportunity to introduce our readers to new faces of the niche perfume industry. This month, Bettina d'Onofrio speaks with artisan perfumer Oliver Valverde from Spain.
By Mark David Boberick
The Italian fragrance house of Xerjoff has done it again. They have driven me to the point of obsession. First, it happened in November with Homme, an exceptional masculine leather fougere and now it happens with Irisss – a fragrance so hauntingly beautiful that it makes many of its iris-based predecessors seem like bottled water.
One of the most outstanding things about the House of Xerjoff is that the entire fragrance range is seemingly laden with precious orris butter from the Iris Pallida plant that grows in abundance in the region outside of Florence. At over $75,000 a kilo, this is one raw material that is hardly ever used anymore. Its cost is far too difficult to work around. . .
